This is our router station.  The motor is mounted to the bottom of a Kreg table suspended in the bench top.

The vacuum hood was built in our shop to contain most of the chips that get thrown around during the trimming process. 

The bit is a ¾” diameter, top bearing, flush trim bit with a ½” shank, and a 1-¾” depth of cut  

Routers are extremely dangerous tools.  I recommend that you have excellent lighting and no distractions while you work.

The Trim Jig  will look similar to this.  The belt clip is not milled into the trim jig which helps reduce the overall height, but that will not affect trim function.

The shell is attached without tools—it snaps onto the trim jig posts at the retention plates.  

When removing the shell from the trim jig, be careful not to twist or torque the shell.  Doing so can result in post damage.

Before you start trimming your shells as shown in the video, I recommend you do a few practice runs with the router off.

Practice feeding a trim jig and the shell clockwise into the blade. 

Check the height of the bearing and the blade.  Make sure that the bearing rides on the bearing surface designed into the trim jig and that the blade will engage the shell where needed all the way around.

Routers can pull the shell and jig out of your hands.  Practice applying firm pressure and keeping your hands well out of the way of the blade. 

Initial feed-in is the most critical point. Use good downward pressure on the shell and trim jig and do not feed straight in.  Use a left to right motion and resist the bit trying to pull the workpiece right to left. Once you have about the first inch of the work piece trimmed, it can no longer “auto-feed” and the task will become much easier, as long as you continue to feed  the workpiece left to right or clockwise.

It takes just a few second to trim a shell.  In this production run of six holsters, three different products will be trimmed.